Kenya

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Young member of the Samburu tribe

These past days we have been making our way south from the Ethiopian border through northern  Kenya, home to some of the most marginal lands in East Africa. 

In the not too distant past for the natives of this region, Nairobi was just some far fetched idea of a place in Kenya. The progressive paving of the Nairobi-Addis Ababa Highway all the way to the Ethiopian border over the past 10 years has turned a multi day journey by car into a matter of hours.  We could see the rock and dirt road that our TDA predecessors had to contend with running parallel to the new tarmac at points. As we said in our last post, thank you China! 

Pastoralists have eeked out a sparse existence here for centuries. Cycling through the  bleak lava rock of the Dida Galgalu Desert, the only signs of life we encountered were the odd nomad and his camels. At the tiny village of Turbi, we purposely lingered at a coke stop in order to delay our arrival at camp in the scorching badlands just to the south. 

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Desert camp south of Turbi, Kenya

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Coke stop in Turbi

The next day’s ride to Marsabit proved to be our biggest test since the blast furnace of Sudan. We have learned that statistics alone cannot forecast the difficulty of the ride that awaits. On this day, it was heavy crosswinds that turned the 122 km and just over 2000 meters of vertical into a real grind.  We spent the morning cycling in an “echelon” pace line with 12 of us in rows of 4 angled in a formation that cut the wind for those on the inside. Riders rotate in and out of the wind blocking outside position, where peddling takes much more effort.  This requires some concentration, and is hardly a way to enjoy the scenery of Africa, but it is an effective way to save energy.  We were unable to keep pace with some of the stronger riders in the afternoon, but formed some new alliances and arrived at a reasonable hour, exhausted, sweaty and caked with the grime of the desert.

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Nomadic Samburu

Continuing south to Laisamos we encountered members of nomadic tribes such as the Rendille, the Borana and the Samburu wandering with herds of camels, goats or cattle. They motioned for us to stop on our bikes to let them drink from our water bottles, which we did when we were confident that we had enough to meet our own needs.  In the town itself  we encountered women whose heads were adorned with spectacular weaves of beads, flowers and coins. They are people of the Samburu tribe, distant relatives of the Maasai, nomadic peoples  whose movements (for this group) have been altered  by the construction of a permanent water source. 

In this part of Kenya water is so scarce that families can literally spend all their time and energy sourcing and collecting it. This means that they never settle in one place and kids never go to school. The lack of an education assures that the cycle repeats itself.  Part of the objective of aid organizations in building a well is that a community can form around it and break that cycle. 

*

For many, a lone acacia silhouetted on the savannah against the horizon stretching into eternity is the iconic image of Africa. The place that invokes that image is often Kenya.  

We have yet to see that terrain. Our point of entry into the country means that we will have to be patient.  But we will get there, and in the meantime we are seeing and learning much along the way. Paul Theroux wrote in Darkstar Safari:

“I reflected that a person who has not crossed an African border on foot has not really entered the country, for the airport in the capital is no more than a confidence trick; the distant border, what appears to be the edge, is the country’s central reality.”

The Tour d’Afrique is a far cry from a safari vacation in Africa:  transfers to a hotel and game park and a checklist to mark off the “Big Five”.  With so much to take in before we get there, Nairobi remains, even for us, some  far fetched idea of a place in Kenya. 

*

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Mount Kenya

From Laisamos we were bussed to the frontier city of Isiolo – this to keep us safe from the bandits and tribal unrest that have presented problems along this stretch.  Gazelles,  ostriches and warthogs were spotted en route. Back on the bikes the next day, the miles to the equator at Nanyuki felt like we were in the foothills of the Rockies in Alberta.  As we gained altitude, fields of wheat and corn (large acreage farms are left over from British soldier settlement schemes after WW1) stretched before us, along with a dramatic snow capped  Mount  Kenya, the 2nd highest peak in Africa. We happened upon a cafe that offered home style brownies, milk shakes and lattes – western treats we have not seen since January.

The lone acacia  will surely follow soon. 

Thanks for reading. 

 

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Alrighty then!

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Northern Kenya

  25 comments for “Kenya

  1. Scott
    March 10, 2019 at 12:05 pm

    Milkshakes! Donuts?

    Thanks so much for keeping us posted.

    Like

  2. John
    March 10, 2019 at 12:09 pm

    What a wonderful post, Gerry!

    Like

  3. March 10, 2019 at 12:20 pm

    Your photos are exquisite! Perhaps a National Geographic photographer job awaits.

    Like

  4. Doug
    March 10, 2019 at 12:52 pm

    Awesome

    Like

  5. Susan Heseltine
    March 10, 2019 at 1:34 pm

    Wow! What an amazing and enlightening piece about the way many people are forced to live in Kenya. We need to build more wells! Hope you see that Acacia tree soon! Thanks for all your hard work on the blog! It is so interesting! I bet there are many days when it’s the last thing you feel like doing! Stay safe! xoxo

    Like

  6. March 10, 2019 at 2:05 pm

    Another fantastic post Gerald. Great reading while we look out the window at yet another snowstorm. When you make your book for this trip (and I’m sure home seems like a long way off right now) each photo will merit a page of its own.

    Like

  7. Anonymous
    March 10, 2019 at 3:15 pm

    Well done! Keep up the energy and motivation! There is also something to be said for the BIG FIVE, even if it is from the safety and comfort of a Land Cruiser. Nobody can return from Africa unchanged. Good luck in the Escarpment! We are following you with great interest and admiration! Happy pedalling! Louise & Tom

    Like

  8. Stephen Lee
    March 10, 2019 at 4:26 pm

    Great post and perspective eg. Dark Star – a really interesting annal. Love the “real” photo of Mt. Kenya, prioritizing the human perspective and surrounding terrain ahead of the big five and “postcard” summits of achievement.

    Like

  9. March 10, 2019 at 5:24 pm

    Totally seduced by that first photo. Paul Theroux is always one for authenticity, and you can’t help but feel that, no matter what you do, nothing meets his high standard for experiencing a country. But I think even he would be intimidated by what you’re doing. Thank you for posting.

    Like

    • March 11, 2019 at 5:35 pm

      He has a way “in” that is special. There is an intimacy in what we are experiencing that he would work wonders with.

      Like

  10. C&C
    March 10, 2019 at 5:34 pm

    It feels like we are in a classroom, learning Africa, thank you.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Suzanne
    March 10, 2019 at 7:38 pm

    Amazing photographs Gerry. I am enjoying every chapter.

    Like

    • March 11, 2019 at 5:31 pm

      Nice to hear. Thank you.

      Like

  12. Anonymous
    March 10, 2019 at 10:14 pm

    Your photos and writing are edited to perfection. Much work, but effort shows. Thanks for excellent report for our education.

    Liked by 1 person

  13. Anonymous
    March 11, 2019 at 2:47 am

    Such compelling information accompanied by the geographical photos and human interest connections. Bravo and thanks once again for including us on your journey. xoxo Judy & Jack

    Like

    • March 11, 2019 at 5:30 pm

      Our pleasure! Thank you.

      Like

    • March 16, 2019 at 7:02 am

      Glad you are enjoying. Be well.

      Like

  14. Liz
    March 11, 2019 at 11:10 am

    My monday morning read. History is captured on the faces of your photos. I could feel the challenge of riding against the winds. Team work is critical. I have so many questions. What an exciting, fulfilling and daunting experience.
    Thank you for allowing us to tag along.

    Like

    • March 11, 2019 at 5:29 pm

      You are right – we have great teams riding with us and supporting us.

      Like

    • March 16, 2019 at 7:01 am

      High praise. Thanks Liz.

      Like

  15. stevebogue
    March 11, 2019 at 12:37 pm

    Great education – thank u

    Like

  16. Anonymous
    March 11, 2019 at 3:57 pm

    Great read – Look forward to every post!!

    Liked by 1 person

  17. The Dream
    March 12, 2019 at 11:13 am

    That may be the best history lesson we have received to date, thanks so much for the great accounts Gerald, keep them coming!

    Like

    • March 16, 2019 at 6:59 am

      Will do Mike. Glad you are following.

      Like

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