Last sunrise in Sudan at Gallabat

“A person who has not crossed an African border on foot has not really entered the country, for the airport in the capital is no more than a confidence trick; the distant border, what appears to be the edge, is the country’s central reality.”

              Paul Theroux, from Darkstar Safari

The Sudan/Ethiopia border was another 4 hour “hurry up and wait” exercise. This time questions about travel to the Congo and an infrared thermometer  pointed at our foreheads served as safeguards against Ebola. Money changers were busy in the neutral zone between countries so we were able to load up on Ethiopian birr at a rate exceeding that offered by the banks in Gondar. After finger printing, mug shots and some very assertive passport stamping, we walked our bikes into the 3rd country of this adventure and exchanged birr for beer while we waited for our support vehicles to clear customs.

There were some armed demonstrations in the streets of Matema as we rode our bicycles a short distance to where the military forced us to board arranged mini vans to get to our destination in Gondar.  Later we saw some burned out farm houses and passed several military check points.  From our understanding there are disagreements  between the tribes (there are over 80 ethnicities in Ethiopia) of this region stemming from the policies of Ethiopia’s new Prime Minister, Abi Ahmed. It is unfortunate that the unrest is situated in our path as Ahmed is well regarded at home in general, as well as in international circles. He has forged peace with Eritrea and created political stability and impressive economic growth all in a short period. 50 % of his ministers are women. Great stuff, but we still were relegated to the bus.


Our vehicle preceeded by a military escort on the road to Gondar

The topography en route to Gondar quickly becomes mountainous and could easily be mistaken for that of Arizona, especially with the appearance of prickly pear cacti to go along with the Juniper, fig and purple flowered jacaranda trees in the city.  It has been a fascinating transition from the desert we were beginning to think might never end, to the mountains of East Africa’s Rift,  Agriculture, architecture, natives, dress, food, drink, SIM cards, the air temperature here at 2200 meters of elevation and so much else have all undergone makeovers that came quickly, even at the rate of progress a bicycle allows.

2 rest days now in Gondar, known as the “Camelot of Africa”.  This city became Ethiopia’s capital in 1636 and grew as an agricultural and market town.  The former magnificence of the palaces and gardens is evident  by what remains of the (World Heritage Site) Royal Enclosure, at the base of the bowl of hills that mark the city. They were constructed over almost 2 hundred years before the capital was moved and the city plundered and sacked.   Ethiopians take pride in never having been colonized, but the Italians did overrun the country in 1936.  The British chased them away in 1941, but Gondar became Mussolini’s last stand and some of the monuments suffered further damage.


Alem-Seghed Fasil’s castle – Gondar



Walls of the Royal Enclosure in Gondar





“You will get sick on your days off”, we’ve been warned, “and it will likely happen in Ethiopia.”  At the same time we’ve been encouraged to sample one of Africa’s finest cuisines.  Last night we had our 1st local taste of injera: a gray, spongy bread made from fermented grain and spread over a whole large platter like a thin pancake.  It is topped with sauces called wot and small mounds of meat, vegetables and a boiled egg. A vegetarian version falls under the “fasting food” title on menus.  It is meant to be eaten by tearing off pieces of the injera by hand and scooping up the toppings. We were not impressed with this dish last year in an Ethiopian restaurant in Brooklyn, but this version was delicious. So far so good on the “sick” front btw.


Throughout Sudan and now here in Gondar the group has indulged in the tea and coffee offerings of women installed at small “stations” within ramshackle lean-to style gathering places we refer to as “coke stops”.  With practised technique they create wonderfully aromatic and invariably sweet concoctions. Boiling  pots of water and Italian style coffee pots sit on expertly managed charcoal burners (or more often on the charcoal itself) that do little for the surrounding air quality. They draw from shelves full of jars containing various tea leaves, coffee and spices to make their brews. They will not be rushed.  Since crossing the border the ladies are roasting their own coffee beans (Ethiopia has among the finest in the world) and grinding them on site with huge mortar and pestle set-ups (including a robust piece of rebar in one instance). A small pot is served rather formally on a tray with 4 small cups for 30 birr – $1.25 Canadian.  It is a gift.


Hanging with the usual crowd at a coke stop on the long road to Capetown

  22 comments for “Ethiopia

  1. Suzanne Rochford
    February 15, 2019 at 12:53 pm

    We hadn’t heard from you in a couple of days and I was starting to wonder if everything was ok…I was very happy to see your post this morning 🙂 Given that there was no mention of water for washing, I am assuming that you have both finally had a suitable dousing. It must have felt awesome. The coffee sounds wonderful and reminds me of a similar experience we had in the Andes of Peru. Power on my friends!


    • February 15, 2019 at 3:41 pm

      Sketchy internet and access to power will keep us on a “random” posting schedule. The showers were most welcome! Thanks Suzanne.


  2. Anonymous
    February 15, 2019 at 1:05 pm

    Great to hear from you both. Love the pictures and stories guys. Always looking forward to your next post.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Anonymous
    February 15, 2019 at 1:57 pm

    Love every blog miss your twinkling lights. Dark out there without them

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Patricia Jackson
    February 15, 2019 at 2:53 pm

    Spectacular pictures. Great Canadian gear


    • February 15, 2019 at 3:37 pm

      Proudly worn. Thanks Patricia.


  5. February 15, 2019 at 3:33 pm

    Into the Heart of Africa, indeed! I don’t suppose you miss being up to your neck in snow like us…


  6. Anonymous
    February 15, 2019 at 7:42 pm

    Great to see that you got the country colours out. Now that you have 2 days off you will no doubt be negotiating publishing rights. So i should put my stake in the ground for the post Brexit UK! Both of you seem to be having an absolutely fabulous time. Keep up the posts, I am redistributing them among those that would appreciate such endeavours. A wee part of Scotland is rooting you both all. Take care.



    • February 16, 2019 at 4:56 pm

      Great to hear from you Gregor. Your comments remind me of that “miracle” Scottish flag you scored in Colombia. Be well.


  7. Anonymous
    February 15, 2019 at 10:13 pm


    I was wondering if you will have the opportunity to see any of the rock hewn churches. We remember them as being very spectacular when we were in Ethiopia in 2014. I cannot say I was a great fan of injera although a lot of the toppings were delicious. Stay well.

    Michael George


    • February 16, 2019 at 4:54 pm

      We ride thru Bahir Dar tomorrow which is off the track from Lalibela (sp.?) where the churches are. Pity. Thanks for writing Michael.


  8. cindy681
    February 15, 2019 at 11:28 pm

    Rich, vivid descriptions Gerry. Fascinated with your journey. Stay safe, stay alert and stay healthy!


    • February 16, 2019 at 4:47 pm

      Will do Cindy. Thanks for following.


  9. Shari Blaukopf
    February 16, 2019 at 12:52 am

    You look like members of the Canadian Olympic cycling team!
    It’s amazing how distinctive the Ethiopian facial features are. Without even a heading to the post I would have known where you were. And the Injera! I know you were looking forward to it. Glad it was worth the border wait to have some. It looks delicious.


    • February 16, 2019 at 4:46 pm

      Ha! Olympians we are not but happy to be feeling healthy. Thanks Shari.


  10. Anonymous
    February 16, 2019 at 1:08 am

    You two are amazing and I was worried about you both in that blog when the heat was taking a toll but I also realized that you both showed a great deal of CS (common sense). Thank you for the descriptions, commentary and photos. Wish I could bucket list what you are doing but alas… just so happy to tag along for the ride. FYI our kids in Vancouver took us to a very good Ethiopian restaurant there and our meal looked very much like the one you were served! Lots of love and stamina to you both. Judy


    • February 16, 2019 at 4:44 pm

      Safety first Thank you Judy.


  11. Frances Hyde
    February 16, 2019 at 1:57 am

    We are really enjoying your posts. Good luck.


  12. February 16, 2019 at 9:30 pm

    Great adventure Gerry. Stay safe.


  13. Anonymous
    February 17, 2019 at 1:25 am



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