The Cast of the 2019 Tour d’Afrique

As we make our way to Ethiopia here is one last image from Sudan.  Sadly the line up of vehicles is the result of a long standing gas shortage (relatively recently independent South Sudan has the oil). The line up of young typically smiling gentlemen was spontaneous as the camera made an appearance. 

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Line ups

We just were told at this evenings’ rider meeting that we will be bussed to Gondar from the Ethiopian border due to political unrest.  Whereas this is disappointing for the participants,  it is a logistical nightmare for the organizers.  Clearly the safety of all concerned is the chief concern.

The www has been hard to access in Sudan.  The lack of distractions has given the group every chance to grow together.  It has been a pleasure.

 

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Rider meeting in the desert – leader Tallis and Doctor Jen holding court

30 riders began the 2019 edition of the Tour d’Afrique. We lost 3 “sectional riders” in Khartoum and gained 5. We now have 7 women, 3 of whom are travelling with their husbands. One of the couples have kids in their 40’s and are on their.  5th tour with TDA, including the even longer South American Epic. Bicycle touring royalty.

The sweet spot in terms of age is around 60 – post “retirement”.  It does, after all, take time and  a chunk of change to do this.  There are about 10 riders in the 30- 35 bracket.  Canada is the best represented country, but we also have a few Brits, a couple of Dutchmen, a Swede, a German, an Irishman and a smattering , of Aussies and Kiwis. We have one woman who is of Chinese descent and a gentleman of Indian descent, but the rest of us here in Africa are slapping sunscreen on our exposed bits like it’s a matter of life or death.  Perhaps it is.  

Among the recently retired we have the former head of the paediatrics ICU at Sick Kids, a former federal court judge from Montreal and a NFB documentary maker turned novelist.  We have a welder. Phil kept a heard of 3200 ewes on the South Island of New Zealand. We have a British geologist on leave from a contract in Rwanda who rallied the group to visit the ancient Nubian temples at Jebel Barkel. We have an architect, retired military, real estate movers and a former corporate lawyer who lasted 3 weeks at home with his wife before signing on as a bike mechanic at MEC!

Everyone here has his or her own variation on the dream of crossing Africa on a bike.  For us, this trip is the culmination of many years of increasingly challenging and exotic bicycle touring. We like journeys that don’t double back on themselves. Crossing a continent qualifies. After 10 years of circling back to the TDA webpage, it was time. Others have lived or worked in Africa and see the trip as “coming home”. Some like to cycle fast and are here to exert themselves on new terrain with new challenges to overcome. Speed bumps and wayward donkeys are unwanted distractions. Others are comfortable enough on their bikes, but are more interested in the sites and the people of Africa, getting to the day’s destination a little later. For them, distractiions make the miles go by quickly. And then there is Mats, who on a given day will head out of camp at the back of the pack with the sweep rider to enjoy a more social riding experience, and the next day might be the first to wash his porridge bowl as he prepares to blaze a trail to camp hours ahead of the last arrivals.  

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Lenore, Peter and Jerome

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Coke/tea stop

We’re not being dramatic in saying that participants have to be accepting of some “difficult” living conditions on this tour. The leaders are champs at giving us every advantage to realize our dream, but they are unsympathetic when it comes to mitigating hardships – “there is no water for washing up” is not preceded by “sorry, but . . .” .  Many of us have been sick. A gastro case in the group needed hospitalization. Orthopedic support tape provides support for knees,  ankles and achilles tendons. A bad flu and chest infections requiring antibiotics hit many, including both of us.  Jennifer, our amenable tour medic, keeps stressing that it is better to rest and keep the long game in mind. She is the voice of reason, but everyone here is stubborn.  Every one of us would rather ride a bike than the bus.  

To a certain extent self preservation is tantamount. There is jostling for the “shady” tent spot. The line forms quickly when “open kitchen” is called for second helpings.  The sound of tent zippers could be heard earlier and earlier over the last days as the realization hit that cool mornings trump afternoon heat. We’ve seen this before. It will change once everyone figures out that minutes don’t make a big difference over the course of a day, and certainly not over 4 months.

At the same time there is a blossoming collective effort which we all recognize works to everyone’s advantage. On the road casual pace lines form when the wind is not in our favour. We help each other with flats tires, putting up tent flys that won’t cooperate in the wind and reminders to hydrate for the weary looking.  Riders have been rolling into camp to applause on the hard days, lead by the strongest among us who know that the additional hours on the road mean less time for other tasks and rest, compounding the deficit. Stronger is better, period. There is mutual respect. Lasting relationships are being formed.

The cast and crew of the Tour d’Afrique are  a travelling sideshow of vehicles and cyclists playing leapfrog across a continent, a tribe unto themselves. Our back stories served as ice breakers in Cairo. Now we are all the same, dreamers with one purpose, to ride our bicycles and get the most out of each day until we reach Capetown. 

Here is a promotional video called “I Seek” from TDA which might help to explain this, and maybe even spark a dream of your own.

Thanks for reading.

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  21 comments for “The Cast of the 2019 Tour d’Afrique

  1. February 11, 2019 at 6:51 pm

    This was so beautifully written! Thank you for sharing!

    Like

  2. raymyquan
    February 11, 2019 at 7:32 pm

    The rider relationships on the Tour d’Afrique is the same as they were for the Silk Road. One annoying aspect was lack of cooperation in handling baggage and bikes when crossing the borders. Some of the stronger males, would carry both of their heavy bags in one carry perhaps 100 meters; and, then wait/sit in the border lineups. It is too easy to wrench your back out! I would make several trips; then, go back and help out with the others. It was basically a fend for yourself attitude. Our border crossing into Turkey, was like a moshe pit; really crowded and ugly. TDA Staff were not very helpful.

    The attitude of “deal with it; it is part of the experience” ; is a ruddy cop-out. An excuse for poor planning / laziness!

    Like

    • Anonymous
      February 11, 2019 at 7:35 pm

      Gerry, I think I mentioned this to you before your trip.. a buddy of mine, Joe, did the drip 7-8 years ago at age 62. He said everyone they medt on the trip was friendly and not once did they feel in danger. Great Photos. You are a natural stroy teller. Keep on trucking as they say.

      Like

      • February 13, 2019 at 4:56 pm

        Military escort from the border today to Gondar. Lots of automatic weapons but we felt completely safe. Thanks.

        Like

    • February 13, 2019 at 5:05 pm

      No no no Ray. Sorry you had a bad experience on the Silk Road. That one sounds like a grind to me – especially Mongolia. Everyone is looking out for each other here though. I meant it when I said that “stronger is better” because at the end of the day this is hard work and no one can do the miles for you or set up your tent everyday. The staff is fully engaged with their own duties and have to camp and deal with heat/whatever just like us. But they are there when someone needs to ride the truck and ready to help in any way they reasonably can.

      Like

  3. Donald Palisaitis
    February 11, 2019 at 8:07 pm

    It sounds like you are moving into the “life-changing” phase
    We read with some apprehension…

    Like

    • February 13, 2019 at 4:55 pm

      All good Donald. Stay the course.

      Like

  4. ian gray
    February 11, 2019 at 8:24 pm

    Fantastic commentary and insight Gerry!

    Like

    • February 13, 2019 at 4:54 pm

      Appreciate that Ian.

      Like

  5. The Dream
    February 11, 2019 at 8:38 pm

    That was an incredible description Gerald, probably my favorite read to date. This is certainly an extraordinary group of brave individuals from all across the globe, it’s very impressive to see that the collective has come together so well. Keep the great accounts and stories coming, and most of all, keep the faith. The cross across the finish line in Capetown will be more glorious than running in -37 degree weather across the vast 9th hole at Atlantide wearing only boots…don’t forget to raise your arms in victory…

    Liked by 1 person

    • February 13, 2019 at 4:54 pm

      That moment will never be equalled – great memory. Thanks.

      Like

  6. quaiscotty
    February 11, 2019 at 10:36 pm

    That is some great inside of the group! Thanks!

    Like

    • February 13, 2019 at 4:52 pm

      Great to hear from you Scotty.

      Like

  7. Doreen A. Croll
    February 11, 2019 at 10:56 pm

    Very inspiring.

    Like

  8. kathleenfox6187
    February 11, 2019 at 11:47 pm

    With all your adventures, there is a book in the making here! I admire your stamina and persistence! And I look forward to each new story! Stay safe and healthy.

    Like

    • February 13, 2019 at 4:52 pm

      Thank you Kathleen.

      Like

  9. Anonymous
    February 12, 2019 at 12:30 am

    Again, AWESOME!!!!!! And again be careful………

    Like

  10. Anonymous
    February 12, 2019 at 12:31 am

    Anonymous?????? Its us…..Caroline and Clinton

    Like

  11. Steve Bogue
    February 13, 2019 at 5:07 pm

    Inspiring- nice job with the recap of your adventure- pedal on

    Like

    • February 13, 2019 at 8:25 pm

      And on and on . . . Thank you Steven.

      Like

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