Pharoah’s Delight


The world’s largest architectural museum is under construction in Cairo.  The superstructure looks big enough to house the pyramids themselves.  It is 6 years behind schedule.  In the meantime,  the day we visited the Tutankhamen exhibition at the current Egyptian Museum painters were teetering on an iffy scaffold within toppling distance of the Boy Pharoah’s glass encased iconic gold mask – an unbelievable affront to an artifact which has travelled the world and been admired by millions. We left dirty, fascinating, wonderful and chaotic Cairo 2 days ago. We were invited to the homes of our taxi drivers for tea and helped across 8 lanes of traffic by a good samaritan who served as a human shield for us. The government is supplying our tour with a police escort all the way to the Sudanese border to guard against the bad press that would result from any incident. The whole country seems to be on board in an effort to win back  the tourist dollars lost to the Arab Spring.

30 cyclists from all over the world in our group were treated to special access cycling through the Pyramid complex early on the morning of our departure.   What a thrill to be there in the absence of the hoards. Yours truly were interviewed for Egyptian television so watch for that!

Over the next 4 months we will cycle along the Nile past ancient temples, through the Sahara in Sudan, up and down the Simien Mountains in Ethiopia, over the equator in Kenya, past Mount Kilimangero in Tanzania, on to one of Africa’s Great Lakes in Malawi and “Mosi-ao-Tunya” (The Smoke That Thunders) which is the native description of Victoria Falls, along the edges of the Kalahari and Namib deserts before finishing our journey in Cape Town, South Africa.

The tour  is divided into sections which begin and end where there are airports.  TDA Cycling has labelled the 2365 km 1st leg of our journey Pharoah’s Delight.

pharaoh's delight

On our last day in the city we braced ourselves against a sandstorm in Tahrir Square that made it easy to understand how so many monuments and artifacts have been lost to the expanding desert.  Fortunately the weather has been favorable since then – single digits early morning rising to mid teens by afternoon.  It has been a “soft start”  compared with what lies ahead: good tarmac, shoulders, helping winds and some of the only hotels we’ll enjoy. Our room last night came equipped with a prayer mat. We knew exactly what to do with it because the Red Sea is the divide between Africa and Asia and on the opposite bank to the south lies Mecca – the target when rolling it out.  The 5 times daily calls to prayer let us know when to act. We’ll need to work on other local customs  – Lenore has been in the lead (ahead of Gerald) on her bicycle more often than not and that is most certainly not in compliance with how things are (still) done here.

We headed out of Cairo to the Red Sea and are now following the coastal highway to Safaga. The right turn at the sea was indicative one of the things we love about cycling: the gradual unveiling of geography at a speed and with exposure to terrain and the elements that allow it to be appreciated. The Red Sea rift which underlies this inlet of the Indian Ocean is part of the Great Rift Valley, a continuous geographic trench that runs from Lebanon to Mozambique. It will account for some spectacular scenery as this journey unfolds southward.

We will be climbing inland next to meet the Nile River at Qena and travel on to Luxor where we will have our 1st day of rest to take in the sites. We will report from the Valley of the Kings.

Magical moment
On to the Red Sea
Lunch in the desert.
Early Morning start.
Early morning start.
stage 2
Our mission for the day

Author: Gerry

Gerry & Lenore have 3 daughters who they thought might want to keep track of their parents as they travel - hence the blogging. Oh. . . . we hope to put up some content worthy of your consideration as well!

44 thoughts on “Pharoah’s Delight”

  1. Impressive! I share your view about travelling at a speed that allows the impact to unfold at a digestible rate. I would love to travel the country by rail on a hand-car- something simulated in a fifties travel promo featuring Buster Keaton on the hand-car. Hilarious!


  2. You two are amazing! It is wonderful reading all the first hand observations and the photos of the pyramids are stunning. Stay safe, the itinerary looks brilliant. xx


  3. Loving this.

    On Fri, Jan 18, 2019 at 10:25 AM Cairo to Capetown on Bicycles wrote:

    > Gerry posted: ” The world’s largest architectural museum is under > construction in Cairo. The superstructure looks big enough to house the > pyramids themselves. It is 6 years behind schedule. In the meantime, the > day we visited the Tutankhamen exhibition at the curre” >


  4. Awesome, what a trip! Look forward to your posts and great pictures. Almost feels like we are there with you without the physical strain.


  5. The call to prayer was something I always loved hearing in Istanbul. Each mosque on its own unsynchronized clock, so that the voices began one at a time & died away until only the last voice remained. I found an upstairs restaurant that was a particularly good spot from which to hear. (I was slightly less enamored of the first one of the day, but when in Rome…) May the tail winds always leave you with enough energy to keep these wonderful posts coming!


  6. Wow – great adventure Gerry. The road looks good – hope it lasts. Do you have to cook dinner for 30 people in the parking lot?? Kevin Apgar


  7. Thank You Van…Another highly informative and entertaining briefing….To keep you updated on the homefront, you should know that the traffic lights on Pacific weren’t working this morning. All good now!


  8. Wow! What a journey you are on! Enjoy every sight and every moment. Be safe and stay hydrated! We will be watching your travels!
    Stefanie and Vivian


    1. 2 armed guards with AK-47’s guarding our lunch spot – seems like overkill but like I said – they are looking after their international reputation and tourism.


  9. Incredible photos and scenery. I loved visiting the pyramids a few years ago, though we were traveling by bus (with a police escort). Godspeed, safe travel and I look forward to your next update!


  10. Wonderful reading Gerry!!
    I especially like the police escort, knowing that you all are safe is reassuring. Safe travels.


    1. Thank you,thank you for the wonderful vicarious experience of traveling along with you. So happy and relieved to see that you are in a group. Looking forward to the next instalment. Stay safe,xoxo Judy and Jack


  11. Thank you for sharing your journey with us…remarkable, inspiring and delicious to read in -33 on the couch! Enjoy all the moments and keep the pics coming too! Tinaz


  12. Ok – now I feel you two are slightly less crazy (only slightly less crazy) knowing that you are doing this as part of a guided tour rather than on your own.


  13. Amazing enterprise you adventurous people! Godspeed and may you both be safe throughout this incredible journey.
    Have done Egypt and Sudan many, many years ago, loved Egypt, not so much Sudan, loved Ethiopia.But always in relative comfort, ramshackle buses, 4x4s, minivans, camping and lodges…
    Enjoy the ride!!!


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s